Netherlands 2004 - Day 3


Amsterdam


The aimless wandering around Amsterdam certainly lived up to its name, as my feet will readily attest. Walking along the banks of a canal in the centre of town is such a rare pleasure that doing so is more than a little addictive.

In anticipation of a solid day of walking I took greater advantage of the hotel breakfast than in Edam. In addition to the usual array of cold meats and cheeses were the essential ingredients of a buttered bacon roll, which proved enough to keep my stomach from complaining for a few hours.

My testing of the city's public transport continued with a crowded tram ride down to Albert Cuypstraat, named after the Dutch painter and now best known for the markets held there daily. Although the markets officially start at 9am, most stalls were unhurriedly opening up a little after 10.

I headed up to Museumplein, home to museums housing the works of masters such as Rembrandt and Van Gogh, and until recently home of the Stedelijk Museum which has temporarily relocated to a new site near Centraal Station. I decided to leave the museum visits for the time being, and wandered over to the Vondelpark for a leisurely stroll in an oasis of green.

The Vondelpark is an idyllic location for running, cycling and rollerblading; with each activity equally well represented. A couple of hours in the sun was easily passed just exploring the immense park.

From here I headed back to the hotel to drop off the camera (having succeeded in carving nice burn marks on both shoulders from the bag) before aimlessly exploring the canal belt. After several hours of this I gave in to curiosity, looked at the map, and decided to continue my aimless wanderings in the comparitive comfort of the Rijksmuseum; which wasn't too far away.

The Rijksmuseum is home to many of the great works of Rembrandt and his pupils, and provides an excellent opportunity to compare his work to other artists of the time. Having acquired a new appreciation for Rembrandt's work, particularly his understanding of light, I headed outside wondering whether he might be a photographer if alive today.

From Museumplein it was a walk over to Leidseplein for a quick fix of street entertainment, including a talented and unusual trio playing Toccata on piano accordions. Following the tram lines back to Centraal I wandered back to the hotel, pausing briefly for sustenance at Febo on the way. Febo stores consist of a wall or two of hot food vending machines, and a counter from which fries and shakes can be ordered. If you can stomach the food (not exactly healthy) it's a good way to get rid of coins.

Once back at the hotel - a little after 7pm - I happily collapsed and grabbed a short rest before heading back out to explore the red light district.

The red light area is a small collection of streets now dominated by the scores of prostitutes who stand scantily clad in windows lit by red strip lights, leered at constantly by the thousands of tourists regularly shuffling along like schoolkids on a trip to the local aquarium. In addition to the girls are other forms of recreation on offer from the many bars, sex shows and koffieshops in the area. Street corners are taken up with a mix of drug dealers and those offering sanctity in the form of christianity, as well as the odd drunken tourist trying vainly to operate a disposable camera.

Mutinous feet persuaded me to head back to the hotel after an hour of shuffling and people-watching. Train noise or not, a good nights' sleep was on the cards.

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